Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Mehndi

Women in India are particularly beautiful. They wrap themselves in decadent colors, bear the weight of jewels on their toes, ankles, fingers, wrists, necks, ears, noses, and even hair, pinch a bindi between their eyes, and paint their bodies with Mehndi.  It is a muslim tradition that has been happily adapted by the hindu community and is a must for celebrations, especially weddings.  
Applying Mehndi takes great skill and concentration as the fast drying dye is unforgiving.
While comparing our mehndi in a park in Jaipur one of us mentioned, "Same, same! But, different!" 




slowly tracing lines
along life and heart
delicate lotuses and vines
swirling
highlighting sex
making it darker
fuller
with lush leaves
more beautiful than reality
dots leading a path to fate
circling, spiraling the head
ringed in memories
stained lines to tell stories
each a mark of where
skin has touched skin
 
               "Mehndi" by Eila Mahima Jaipaul



Above: statue in Mumbai
Below: Sometimes women have only the tips of their fingers dyed. When asked why, they usually say, "beautiful, no?"


 
Above: during her brother's Janoi celebration
Below: traditional mehndi of the Adivasi community

Above: jewels in hand
Below: little ol me

Above: ink on skin
Below: marni
Brides sit for up to 7 hours getting detailed designs traced on their bodies and are then unable to move, its frowned upon to smear the dye, for another 2 to 5 hours. Its a task.  But the result is beautiful, elegant and something that bonds women from all over India.
sister of the groom


There is a dance party breaking out in the office- gottttta go!

Friday, July 23, 2010

Tribes

Having spent 5 nights living with the Adavasi community of Andhra Pradesh, all my hopes and dreams for India have come true.

It took many trains, a few rickshaws, several buses, a flight, and one wet jeep ride through the jungle to reach the offices of LAYA, a partner organization of Drishti, but Kaberi and I made it!  The office is a 3 story building that is home to the Community Video and Community Radio programs as well as all the program participants.

Yep, everyone lives in the office. Since infrastructure is unreliable in the rural areas, participants, especially the women, are given the option of living in the office.
If they can make it to work on time every day, they are free to go home, but being to work on time is a priority so if you cant garuntee it, well, then, welcome home, I suppose.

The girls wake up, cook veggies and white rice for breakfast, do their laundry, sing, work, sing, work, make lunch, iron their laundry, sing, work, sing, work, make veggies and white rice for dinner, watch tv, sing, clean up, sleep, and then wake up to do it all over again.  They sing religiously.  In the mornings I was awakened by their harmonious melodies and then throughout the day I wrote, ate, and breathed to the rhythm of the tribal songs. They seem to have a song for every occasion- a bull pulling a cart, a man going to buy bangles for his bride, the duties expected of women, and working in the fields.  If only I knew their dialect. damn.

The days were slow and we were rarely concerned with time. We woke up with the sun, ate lunch when it arrived, napped when we wanted to, played badminton when we sensed the day light was coming to an end, and slept when the darkness took us over. Work happened at a casual pace, and why not? There was no 9-5 time limit. If you finish you are free, otherwise do what you must to finish.




My objective for the trip was to write about the people we work with at LAYA. I wanted to hear the thoughts of the video and radio team, as well as their reflections.  The video team has been working for about 4 years to create and sustain an operational unit in the area while the audio team is just starting production.   I asked one question at a time, the question was translated, they wrote, handed in their answers, those were translated, and now I am taking a break from making sense of the broken English to write to you. I am close to having a complete profile of the Radio team, so hopefully I can share something with you next week. I also have some recordings of the songs, so if the internet breaks down and I experience writer's block, I will share an edited audio file with you!

Random thought worth sharing: Members of the tribal communities are often Christians, because their ancestors  couldn't afford to be Hindus. Now, they are being encouraged, often by political heavyweights, to connect to their roots, their Hindu roots.  One of the reasons given? "Look how colorful our gods are!"

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Will Travel for Food

Last night was my turn to cook for 5 others.  LAYA, the NGO Kaberi and I are currently visiting has a three story building which houses 6 women working in the Community Video program, another 6 for the Community Radio program, a professional filmmaker wrapping up his third film on LAYA, Karuna- my former roommate and current Drishti Radio Trainer, her brother who helps run LAYA, and a few others who care for the facilities. With a kitchen consisting of two pots, two burners, salt, pepper, and a few seasonal veggies, I was worried about my ability to make something worth eating.

We have been dining on rice, huge mounds of bland, white rice, for 2 meals a day, so my only objective was to give potatoes the lead role in this dinner.  We sent someone for a chicken- freshly butchered a short distance away- but when he returned the meaty pieces I am used to, breast, thighs, leg, were gone and everything else was jammed into a tiny plastic bag.  I chopped some onions, mashed some garlic, and drenched the chicken in cold Kingfisher beer hoping to make something edible.

one hour and a few power outages later- the garlicky potatoes were cooking down and the beer  turned into a fine gravy.  with the light of a solar lantern everything was served and devoured within minutes. bed time.

6:30 wake up call! BREAKFAST. Instead of having Idli delivered we went to a stand about 6 km away from the office. The Dosa/Idli lady shuts down by 8:30 so we have to be there early.

We drove down this road...
To find this little hut...
to eat Dosas- 
thin pancakes served with coconut and tomato chutney spicy enough to burn your mouth....
and Idlis-
steamed spheres of rice flour served with the same chutneys
prepared by this husband and wife team

back to the office for a nap after such a feast before work kicks off!

Monday, July 12, 2010

6 Reasons to Brag

I am in the jungle of Andhra Pradesh so net is limited but I have plenty to say!!

Things I have done in the past 2 weeks:
1. Brahmin Threads Ceremony with my neighbors (maybe like a Bar Mitzvah but with more traditions and costume changes)
2. visited another fellow in Dharampur, Gujarat (very rural, very green)
3. survived the bandh in mumbai
4. met with our YUVA Video Unit based 2 hours away from Mumbai. Asked a lot of questions, took many photos, and recorded some audio bites for radio broadcasting.
4. attended a 3-day, muslim wedding in Hyderabad
5. danced the night away with some http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telugu_moviesTelugu Actors in clubs too fancy for me
6. played badminton in the jungle on a small plot surrounded by green hills and silence